Situated in the South of France, most people think of Provence as a summer destination. With abundant nature, there is plenty of fun to be had exploring the region’s diverse and beautiful landscapes under the never-ending sunshine. Yet, there is a lot more to Provence than just days out in the sun. Come Christmas time, the whole region transforms into a winter wonderland.

The region has its own special Christmas customs and this makes the festive season here particularly magical. The festivities run from the 4th of December right through until the 2nd of February. Throughout this period there are all kinds of rituals and celebrations that take place. If you like Christmas then you’re in for a real treat in Provence.

If you also wish to lear about Christmas traditions all over the world, you may Christmas Around the World Interactive Map

 

St. Barbe’s Day

The 4th of December is St Barbe’s Day and on this day you are supposed to plant wheat or lentil seeds in dishes. If the stalks grow straight and green it is a sign of a prosperous year to come. The wheat that grows as a result of this activity is then used to decorate the Christmas crib that is made by families.

 

Making the Crib (Crèche)

Once the wheat has been planted, Christmas can get started. The first thing families do is build their Christmas crib using their collection of santons. Santons (little saints) are human figurines that are sculpted by craftsmen using wood or clay. The santons are made to represent traditional professions such as bakers, butchers and tailors. The little figures are then used to populate your homemade nativity scene.

crib in provence

Crib in Provence - ©CDT Vaucluse

 

There are dozens of markets that pop up all over the region selling santons so the people of Provence can add to their collection year after year. We will tell you where to buy santons from a local lady who learned how to make them from her own parents. She keeps the tradition alive using a traditional wood oven and painting the santons by hand. The santons tradition orginally comes from the Alpilles regions, which include Arles, Saint Remy de Provence, les Baux de Provence.

 santons of provence

 Santons of Provence - ©CDT Vaucluse

Christmas Eve Dinner

On Christmas Eve, the table is covered with three tablecloths. Each tablecloth is slightly smaller than the one beneath it so that all three can be seen. Three white candles are then placed on the table to represent the Holy Trinity. The table can also be decorated with the wheat and lentils that were planted on St. Barbe’s Day.

The Christmas Eve dinner is then served up. The meal is typically lean and meat-free and consists of seven dishes made up of local vegetables and regional fish. Each of the seven dishes is said to represent one of the sorrows of the Virgin Mary.

The table remains set like this from the 24th of December through to the 26th as these are the three main celebration days. Once dinner is finished on Christmas Eve, any leftovers are left on the table so that the angels can join in the festivities while the family goes to Midnight Mass.

 

Midnight Mass

This is a special service that takes place at midnight on December 24th. Various Christmas carols are sung before and after a sermon. The whole event finishes with a Christmas blessing and more singing from the choir. Occasionally, there is also an enactment of the nativity scene by the local people of Provence.

 

mass provence

Christmas mass in Provence is often given in Provençal language - ©OT Saint Remy de Provence

 

The Thirteen Desserts

Probably the most delicious of all the Christmas celebrations in Provence, the thirteen desserts symbolise Jesus and his twelve apostles at the last supper. The desserts are eaten after Midnight Mass and are divided in to four categories: pasty, candied fruit, dried fruit and nuts, and fresh fruit. Each type of dessert has a particular significance.

In Avignon, you will be able to taste all these desserts. 

 

christmas desserts in provence

13 dessert table in Provence for Christmas

 

The centrepiece of the desserts is a special type of bread called Pompe à l'huile (which you see on the picture on the right of the table with a star shape on it). This dish is a sweet bread made with olive oil that has been infused with lemon peel or orange blossom water. The bread must be pulled apart by hand and never cut with a knife, just as Jesus tore the bread apart at the last supper.

We’ll tell you where to taste the best Pompe à l’huile (all year long).

 

The Epiphany

The last of the big Christmas celebrations occurs on the 6th of January. This is the Epiphany and it marks the arrival of the three wise men. In Provence it is celebrated by eating a delicious galette des rois, a cake in the shape of a crown that has crystallised fruit on top as a garnish. On this day, it is also traditional to move the wise men santons from the peripheries of the nativity scene to the crib.

 

galette des rois

Traditional Galette des Rois from Provence & Southern France (it's different in Northern France: Frangipane)

 

Outlined above are some of the most important Christmas traditions in Provence but, of course, there is so much more to enjoy once you are there.

The best way to experience the Provence Christmas celebrations is to be there for yourself.

 

Find out more about our Provence itineraries.

 

France Just For You

Experts in self-drive tours in France

Travelers Reviews

5.0
Chuck
Emilie was a great help in planning our trip and the accommodations and recommendations were excellent and well thought out. Unless you speak French and know the countryside, this is the best company for you to use to have a superb vacation and I would use them again anytime. They give you options so you can do what you like, but help with the …
Elizabeth
My husband and I just returned from two magnificent weeks in France that included four nights in Paris, four nights in the Loire Valley, two nights near Mont Saint Michel, three nights in Bayeux, near the WWII Landing Beaches and one night at a CDG airport hôtel. We stayed in charming B&Bs with equally charming hosts who recommended great places to …
Kim, Eric & Family
We had a great vacation thanks to you. Your arrangements and attention to detail were unsurpassed. We got to enjoy such a wonderful experience of France because of your little details and suggestions; things we did and saw we would never had been aware of or done if we traveled on our own itinerary or had a canned tour. Thanks so much for all of …
Jim
If you want to experience France, but are hesitant because you don’t speak the language, this company is for you. Emilie will prepare an itinerary that is so detailed that even the most inexperienced, non-French speaking traveler will be able to navigate France. Her attention to detail is so incredible that almost everything sitiuation you …
Nicole
My husband and I used Emilie from France Just For You to plan a special trip for our anniversary. We loved the fact that our trip had structure, but at the same time, we had freedom to explore as we wished. We also loved the fact that the trip included guided tours, but we were not tied to a tour group as such. Emilie planned our trip according to …
Ellen & Ray
This was the best trip to France we have ever been on! It was the second trip that Emilie and Laura at France Just for You set up for us. The first was a trip around Provence, which we loved so much that we asked them to set up our second trip to the Loire Valley, Normandy, and Paris. Both trips were tailored to our interests - food, wine, art …

What are you looking for?